ION BLUE RESEARCH DIRECTORY
Signal Peptides
Cosmetic peptides designed to act as messengers to skin cells — for example, to modulate extracellular-matrix proteins such as collagen. Includes the palmitoyl 'Matrixyl'-type peptides. Much of the cited human data comes from multi-ingredient formulations, so effects cannot be attributed to the peptide alone; see each entry for specifics.
Category-level context for navigating related peptides and scientific evidence.
Overview
Cosmetic peptides designed to act as messengers to skin cells — for example, to modulate extracellular-matrix proteins such as collagen. Includes the palmitoyl 'Matrixyl'-type peptides. Much of the cited human data comes from multi-ingredient formulations, so effects cannot be attributed to the peptide alone; see each entry for specifics.
Peptides in this category
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5 (trade name Eyeseryl, by Lipotec/Lubrizol) is a synthetic peptide marketed for under-eye puffiness and bags. Its official EU CosIng function is simply "Humectant." What we don't know: we could not find any independent efficacy data, and the manufacturer's own efficacy figures were not accessible on a public source we could verify.
Decapeptide-12
Decapeptide-12 (trade name Lumixyl; INCI Decapeptide-12) is a synthetic decapeptide (sequence H-Tyr-Arg-Ser-Arg-Lys-Tyr-Ser-Ser-Trp-Tyr-OH) identified by phage-display screening. Published studies report competitive inhibition of tyrosinase — the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis — and small clinical pilots in melasma, two of them manufacturer-affiliated.
GHK (Tripeptide-1)
Tripeptide-1 (GHK; glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine) is a naturally occurring tripeptide used in cosmetics. Much of the skin literature concerns its copper complex (copper tripeptide-1 / GHK-Cu, summarized separately); cited evidence for the copper-free tripeptide is largely in vitro and review-level.
Matrixyl 3000
Matrixyl 3000 is a cosmetic peptide blend of palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. A cited 12-week human study of a multi-component formula containing both peptides reported measured skin improvements; because the formula included additional actives, effects cannot be attributed to the peptide blend alone.
Matrixyl Synthe'6 (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38)
Matrixyl Synthe'6 (INCI palmitoyl tripeptide-38) is a lipidated tripeptide cosmetic ingredient. Cited human evidence comes from multi-ingredient serums that include palmitoyl tripeptide-38 among other actives, several with commercial or manufacturer affiliation, so effects cannot be attributed to this peptide alone.
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17
Myristoyl Pentapeptide-17 is a lab-made lipopeptide used in eyelash and eyebrow products and marketed to condition lashes by stimulating keratin genes. What we don't know: we could not find any independent study or clinical trial of it — the lash claims are supplier marketing, and no sample-size data exist.
Nonapeptide-1
Nonapeptide-1 (trade name Melanostatine-5; INCI Nonapeptide-1) is a synthetic nonapeptide (Met-Pro-D-Phe-Arg-D-Trp-Phe-Lys-Pro-Val-NH2) identified as a potent antagonist of the α-melanocyte-stimulating-hormone (α-MSH) receptor, the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R). By blocking α-MSH signaling it is proposed to reduce melanin synthesis for skin brightening; the receptor pharmacology is well-characterized in vitro, while independent human cosmetic-efficacy data are limited.
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
Palmitoyl oligopeptide is a lipidated peptide cosmetic ingredient, cited within a peptide blend with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7. Evidence is from a multi-ingredient blend, so effects cannot be attributed to palmitoyl oligopeptide alone.
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (pal-KTTKS, the peptide in the cosmetic ingredient Matrixyl) is a lipidated fragment of type I collagen used in skincare. Published primary evidence is largely in vitro and ex vivo (stability, skin-permeation, and fibroblast studies); independent controlled evidence for appearance benefits is limited.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (pal-GQPR) is a lipidated tetrapeptide cosmetic ingredient, frequently used with palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (Matrixyl 3000) or palmitoyl oligopeptide. Cited human and ex vivo evidence comes from multi-ingredient blends, so effects cannot be attributed to this peptide alone.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 (pal-GHK) is a lipidated tripeptide cosmetic ingredient, often combined with palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (the pair is marketed as Matrixyl 3000). Cited human evidence comes from a multi-ingredient formula, so effects cannot be attributed to this peptide alone.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (trade name Syn-Coll, by Pentapharm/DSM) is a lab-made signal peptide marketed as a collagen booster. The published literature we could verify only names it among cosmetic peptides; its collagen claims come from the manufacturer. What we don't know: we could not find independent, peer-reviewed efficacy data, and the manufacturer's collagen figures could not be traced to a verifiable source.